Wadi El Natrun Monasteries: A Holy Family Travel Experience

The story of the Holy Family's passage through Egypt is one of the Bible's most enduring tales of devotion and divine sanctuary. As recounted in the Gospel of Matthew, Mary, Joseph and the infant Jesus had fled the wrath of King Herod in Bethlehem, and so crossed the deserts of Egypt - a three-and-a-half year journey covering more than 3500kms - and passed through coastal gateways, the Nile Delta, the Egyptian city quarters and the sheer limestone cliffs of Upper Egypt in search of safer ground.

Among the regions blessed by the Holy Family's passage, Wadi El Natrun is held in particularly high regard - the Nitrian Valley as it is also known, is a desert basin some distance to the northwest of Cairo. It is here that the family's crossing of the desert was to leave the most enduring legacy. This is your complete guide to the history, holy sites, remarkable architecture and practical travel arrangements for touring the monastic cities of Wadi El Natrun.

1. The Valley of Natron

Wadi El Natrun (or the Nitrian Valley, as it was known in antiquity) is a low desert basin nestled between the cities of Cairo and Alexandria. This was a region of salt marshes and sand dunes, where ancient Egyptians once gathered the alkali salt for mummification from the valley's namesake lakes.

When the Holy Family crossed the desert sands and came across the secluded basin whilst on their journey between the N ile Delta and the central cities of the Nile, local Coptic tradition tells that as the child Jesus walked the desert sands He blessed the land, and foretold that the valley would one day blossom into a verdant region for many devoted ascetics.

It was in the 4th century AD that St Macarius the Great arrived in the Wadi, and it was the memory of the Blessed Virgin's well as much as the desert silence that drew him and thousands of other followers, many of whom had followed the holy family. Subterranean cells, isolated hermitages and eventually walled monasteries sprung up across the Wadi, which have continued to provide a home for monks for more than sixteen centuries.

2. The Monasteries of Wadi El Natrun

Today, four of these medieval monasteries still stand in Wadi El Natrun, each housing unique attractions for the devout or curious visitor. They also offer a choice of accommodation along Egypt's official national Holy Family trail. Set within great stone walls, the compounds have well-preserved 5th century gateways, ancient churches and priceless relics.

The Monastery of St Bishoy (Deir Anba Bishoy)

One of the most popular and frequently visited of the Nitrian monasteries, that of St Bishoy is famed for the humility of its 4th century namesake founder. The whole complex, which dates from the 6th century AD, is encircled by massive limestone walls built for protection against desert raiders.

The Holy Well: in the monastery's courtyard lies an ancient stone well, blessed by the Holy Family when they passed through the valley. St Bishoy is said to have used water from this well to wash the feet of a heavenly stranger who revealed Himself to be Christ.

The Shrine of St Bishoy: the main church possesses the body of St Bishoy which is kept within a wooden tube shrine for the pilgrims' veneration.

The Fortified Keep (Al-Qasr): you can also discover a historic multi-storey stone keep within the monastery complex, complete with a wooden drawbridge and secret chapels, as well as storerooms which protected the monks during medieval times.

The Syrian Monastery (Deir El-Suryan)

Attached to St Bishoy's monastery, the 6th century Syrian Monastery was home to Syrian monks who had crossed the Red Sea to Egypt to study the Coptic monastic rules. Internationally renowned amongst art historians, the monastery's treasures also include some of the finest examples of early Christian frescoes in the Middle East.

The Church of the Virgin Mary: within the main church are stunning 8th century Christian frescoes of the Annunciation and Birth of Christ.

The Tree of St Ephrem: growing within the courtyard of the monastery is a massive tamarind tree, which, according to local tradition, grew from the staff of St Ephrem the Syrian after he planted it in the ground.

Historic Library: the monastery is also famed for possessing one of the richest collections of ancient Syriac, Coptic and Arabic manuscripts in existence.

The Monastery of El-Baramus (Deir El-Baramus)

Located at the furthest point north within the Wadi, El-Baramus is considered the oldest of the four Wadi monasteries, founded around 340 AD by St Macarius the Great. The Baramus monks take their name from the Roman prince-hermits Maximus and Domatius, two early residents of the monastery who died as ascetics.

The ancient complex retains a feeling of isolation, with its historic Church of the Virgin Mary possessing ancient stone columns, medieval frescoes and a secluded subterranean chapel built over the early monastic cells.

The Monastery of St Macarius (Deir Abu Makar)

Further south in the Wadi, the austere Monastery of St Macarius has long been a center of scholarship for the Coptic Church. Founded by St Macarius the Great, the monastery has been the home to many popes, scholars and theologians who have shaped religious history long into the modern era. The complex is also famed for possessing the relics of St John the Baptist and the Prophet Elisha, found within the monastery's walls during restoration works in the 1980s. Three medieval churches also stand within the monastery grounds, along with a great three-storey keep housing ancient chapels dedicated to the Archangel Michael.

3. The Global Influence of Wadi's Monks

The passage of the Holy Family through Wadi El Natrun laid the foundation for an enduring legacy. Monasticism was a great influence during the golden age of the Egyptian monasteries in the 5th and 6th centuries AD, when over fifty monasteries and thousands of cave hermitages dotted the Wadi. European scholars and monks - including John Cassian and St Jerome - travelled to Wadi El Natrun to witness the rules of the Nitrian hermits, many of which were to influence the founding of Western monastic orders, including the Benedictines.

4. A Practical Guide to Seeing Wadi's Monasteries

Here's a few practical suggestions for experiencing Wadi's fascinating monastic legacy:

Getting there: Wadi El Natrun lies along the road between Cairo and Alexandria, around 100km northwest of Cairo, and 110km southeast of Alexandria.

Getting around: The best option for visiting the Wadi's monasteries is by private car. Alternatively, hired taxis or tour buses can also be arranged, with a journey time of about 90 minutes from central Cairo.

When to visit: The best time to see the Wadi's monasteries is between October and April, to avoid the summer desert heat. An early start (about 9am) will also give you time to see more than one of the Wadi's impressive monastic complexes in a single day.

What to wear and how to behave: All four sites are monasteries, so it is advisable to dress modestly and make sure that your shoulders and knees are covered. Also, keep voices to a minimum and ask permission before taking any photographs of the monks.