The Holy Family Route in Wadi El Natrun

The journey of the Holy Family through Egypt is one of the most spiritually rewarding, historically rich, and culturally significant events in ancient history. According to the Gospel of Matthew, Mary, Joseph, and the infant Jesus had to flee the massacre ordered by King Herod in Bethlehem. The family crossed desert wastes and rocky ravines searching for a safe haven in Egypt, staying in the country for almost 3 and a half years. The family traveled more than 3,500 km from the coastal entry point to the Delta, and through the Nile Delta and the cities of Old Cairo and Upper Egypt, hugging the Limestone cliffs.

The region of Wadi El Natrun, a fertile valley tucked between sand dunes in the Nitrian Desert northwest of Cairo, has a special place in Egypt’s Christian history. This valley transformed from a remote desert area that the Holy Family passed through into the birthplace of Egypt’s Christian monasticism. Here is a complete list of information about the history, monasteries, buildings, and visiting guidelines for the Wadi El Natrun route of the Holy Family.

1. The Historical and Geography Setting

Wadi El Natrun (also known as the Valley of Natron) is a long, low desert depression in the Western Desert that was once a quiet, unremarkable basin between Cairo and Alexandria. This region is abundant in deposits of alkali salts, silt, and sand that were used to make salt, glass, and mummy plaster in Ancient Egypt.

When Our Lady, Joseph, and the infant Jesus were passing through the district, they were heading between the Nile Delta villages and the Cairean valleys when they stopped overnight in the valley to acclimatize. According to local Coptic legends, the infant Jesus blessed the desert when he walked on it and foretold that it would someday bloom with ascetics and monks.

In the 4th century AD, this prediction came true when St. Macarius the Great arrived at Wadi El Natrun. He was deeply moved by the memory of the Holy Family and the loneliness of the desert. As a result, thousands of monks arrived in the valley, building hermitages and underground cells that later evolved into heavily fortified monasteries that have stood for over sixteen hundred years.

2. Key Monasteries and Sacred Sites in Wadi El Natrun

Today, there are four thriving medieval Coptic orthodox monasteries in the Wadi El Natrun region that serve as the main route attractions for Egypt’s officially recognized national Holy Family Trail. Each of these monasteries is surrounded by formidable walls, ancient drawbridges, and contains valuable spiritual relics and artifacts.

Monastery of Saint Bishoy (Deir Anba Bishoy)

The Monastery of St. Bishoy is widely considered to be the most famous and popular of all Wadi El Natrun monasteries. The fortress-like structures that comprise the complex were built by St. Bishoy, a 4th-century monk who was well-known for his piety and asceticism. The walls of the monastery complex were reinforced with large stone blocks from the 5th century to protect the resident monks from marauding desert tribes.

The Holy Well: A well within the monastery grounds, which was blessed by the Holy Family while passing through the valley, is said by locals to have been used by St. Bishoy to wash the feet of a heavenly stranger that turned out to be Christ.

The Body of St. Bishoy: The main church possesses the incorrupt corpse of St. Bishoy, which is stored in a wooden tube for the edification of the faithful.

The Fortified Keep (Al-Qasr): In addition to the above attractions, the visitors can also tour a multi-storey stone keep with a wooden drawbridge, secret chapels, and storerooms stocked with supplies for the monastery’s survival during medieval sieges.

The Syrian Monastery (Deir El-Suryan)

The next major monastery in the Wadi El Natrun route is the Syrian Monastery, located close to the Monastery of St. Bishoy. This 6th-century Syrian Christian monastery complex was inhabited by Syrian monks who had come to Egypt to study Coptic asceticism. The Syrian Monastery is famous among art historians and theologians for its spectacular collection of ancient artistic treasures.

The Church of the Virgin Mary: This church is noted for its impressive collection of early Christian frescoes, including first-millennium Syriac drawings of the Annunciation and the Nativity.

The Tree of St. Ephrem: The large tamarind tree located in the monastery enclosure is said to have grown from the walking stick of St. Ephrem the Syrian.

Historic Library: The library of the monastery was once home to one of the world’s richest collections of ancient Syriac, Coptic, and Arabic manuscripts.

The Monastery of El-Baramus (Deir El-Baramus)

The monastery of El-Baramus is the oldest of the four Wadi El Natrun monasteries, located at the northern end of the valley. It was founded by St. Macarius the Great around 340 AD and is also known as the Monastery of the Romans, honoring the two Roman prince-hermits, who chose ascetic life at this site: St. Maximus and Domatius.

This is the most secluded and best-kept of all Wadi El Natrun monasteries with an aura of detachment that still clings to it. It is home to the finest examples of ancient building stonework and medieval wall paintings in the region. The early Christian Church of the Virgin Mary boasts a crypt built directly over the early monastic cells, while medieval subterranean shrines are another highlight of the El-Baramus Monastery.

The Monastery of St. Macarius (Deir Abu Makar)

Further south, nestled in a rocky gully, is the fortress-like St. Macarius Monastery. This ivy-clad monastery complex was also founded by St. Macarius the Great and is a testament to his enormous impact on the development of the Christian monastic tradition. The monastery is famed for possessing the relics of St. John the Baptist and the Prophet Elisha, which were discovered in the ruins of an ancient chapel during the monastery’s late 20th-century restoration.

The monastery of St. Macarius is also renowned for the three magnificent medieval churches and a three-storey stone keep that contains ancient chapels to the Archangel Michael.

3. The Desert Transformation: Monastic Legacy

The journey of the Holy Family through the desert transformed the landscape and paved the way for the development of a rich and vibrant Christian theological tradition. During Egypt’s golden age of monasticism (5th-6th century AD), more than fifty monasteries and hundreds of cave hermitages dotted the valley. Many European monks, including St. John Cassian and St. Jerome, traveled to Wadi El Natrun to study the rules of the desert monasticism, which formed the basis for the Western monastic orders, such as the Benedictines.

4. Practical Travel Guide for Visitors

For the benefit of those wishing to visit the Wadi El Natrun landmarks associated with the Holy Family, here is some additional information that will help you get the most out of your tour:

Location: Wadi El Natrun is conveniently located on the road between Cairo and Alexandria, approximately 100 km to the northwest of Cairo and 110 km to the southeast of Alexandria.

Getting There: The most practical way to reach Wadi El Natrun is by private car, hired taxi, or in an organized tour bus. The drive from central Cairo takes around 90 minutes.

Best Time to Visit: The best time to visit Wadi El Natrun is between October and April. Arrive at the monasteries in the morning (around 9:00 AM) to ensure you can see everything on foot in one day.

Dress Code and Etiquette: The monasteries have their own strict rules. Always dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered. Speak quietly at all times and ask permission before taking photos of monks.

Access: The monasteries are generally open to the public, but you may be asked to leave during periods of fasting or church retreats.