The Holy Family in Old Cairo: What Travelers Should

The journey of the Holy Family through Egypt is one of the most spiritually profound and historically rich sagas in human history. As reported in the Gospel of Matthew, Mary, Joseph, and the infant Jesus left Bethlehem to escape the bloody decree of King Herod. Seeking asylum across the border, they traveled through Egypt for about three and a half years before finally settling down. The Holy Family crossed more than 3,500 km of desert, farmland, and inaccessible cliffs by foot, and this trek covered the entire country. However, Old Cairo is a historical crossroads of the ancient route.

Encircled by the stone walls and round towers of the ancient Roman fortress of Babylon, Old Cairo shelters the most concentrated cluster of Holy Family Sanctuaries in the capital. History buffs, time-traveling tourists, and Christian pilgrims who wish to retrace their steps should consider these tips about history, highlights, cultural bearings, and logistics when exploring the domestic route of the Holy Family in Old Cairo.

1. Old Cairo’s Historical Setting: The Fortress of Babylon

The traveler visiting Old Cairo should begin their excursion with the history of the region before its current medieval cityscape. Long ago, the area was ruled by the Fortress of Babylon before the greater city of Cairo grew around it. The Romans built this massive military garrison around the first century AD to control the apex of the Nile Delta and regulate traffic on the river.

When the Holy Family was passing through the region, the fortress complex housed Roman soldiers as the city’s main Roman bastion flanked by civilian harbors and trading posts. To remain discreet and safe, the Virgin Mary, Joseph, and the Child Jesus took shelter in the limestone caves found on the underground of the village. Centuries later, the early Christian Coptic community built their holiest churches on top of and inside the Roman fortress. As such, present-day Old Cairo is a historic blend of Roman and Coptic history.

2. The Main Holy Family Attractions of Old Cairo

One can explore Old Cairo on foot as one’s destination of choice is within walking distance.

The Church of Abu Serga / St. Sergius and Bacchus

Of all the churches dotting the Egyptian pilgrimage trail, the Church of Abu Serga is the most noteworthy. This 4th-century church complex was built on top of the fortress bastions of the Roman fortress. Built on the very rock of its subterranean caves, the basilica-style Church of Abu Serga boasts a classical design with twelve soaring marble columns decorated with painted portraits of saints on their upper parts. Other notable features include a magnificent 13th-century wooden iconostasis inlaid with ebony and ivory and a timber roof in the shape of an inverted boat to depict Noah’s Ark. Visitors can explore the underground crypt through a stairway descending to the lowest cavern. This chamber measures six meters in depth and houses the ancient rock alcoves, an early Christian baptismal font, and a deep well that the Holy Family used as their water source.

The Hanging Church (Al-Muallaqa)

Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the Hanging Church of Old Cairo takes pride in being one of Egypt’s oldest Coptic churches. Dating back to the 3rd or 4th century AD, this spectacular church derives its name from being literally hung over the southern gatehouse towers of the Roman fortress. As such, visitors explore the fascinating structure’s hollowed-out space at the first floor through glass panels in the marble floor. Although the Hanging Church was not a hideout cave, it is the spiritual center of the Old Cairo region. It is the seat of the Coptic Orthodox Papacy for centuries and the visual focus of the entire fortress quarter. Inside the church, some of Egypt’s most notable treasures can be found, including over a hundred and ten holy icons, an exquisite 11th-century marble preaching podium embellished with thirteen columns, and intricate woodworks.

The Church of Saint Barbara

Nestled on the east side of the Roman fortress lies the 11th-century Church of St. Barbara. The Church of St. Barbara honors a pious young martyr who was killed for her faith. This remarkable church is located right beside the ancient road that the Holy Family took as they walked past the Roman garrison quarter. The Church of St. Barbara’s highlight is the ancient wooden screens and the preserved relics of the early saints.

The Ben Ezra Synagogue

The Ben Ezra Synagogue is a stone’s throw away from the Christian churches in the Old Cairo district. This 9th-century synagogue was built on the site of a 4th-century Christian church sold by the Coptic Christian community to the Jewish residents of Cairo. According to local legends, it is on this very spot that baby Moses was rescued from the raging Nile waters in his papyrus basket. In addition, the Ben Ezra Synagogue houses the world-famous Cairo Genizah that has long been a treasure trove of ancient Jewish manuscripts discovered in the 19th century.

3. Other Interesting Stops in Greater Cairo

The Old Cairo fortress quarter is only one of three stops comprising the capital’s Holy Family itinerary.

Virgin Mary’s Tree in Matariya is found at the far north of present-day Cairo. This ancient sycamore tree was a favored haunt of the Virgin Mary, who rested in its shade as Jesus unearthed a new spring of water. The Tree is surrounded by the ancient offshoot, the old well, and an open-air museum.

Meanwhile, in southern Cairo, the Church of the Virgin Mary in Maadi is located on the banks of the Nile. It was here that the Holy Family took a brief respite on a small wooden sailboat as they traveled south towards Upper Egypt.

4. Final Tips for Old Cairo Exploration

To have a fulfilling experience while exploring the Holy Family sites in Old Cairo, the following recommendations should be considered.

Getting There

Old Cairo is very accessible through the city’s metro system. Taking Line 1 is the best way to get to the historical district as the Mar Girgis (St. George) station’s exit leads straight to the Roman fortress’s towers and alleys.

When to Go

The best time to go to Old Cairo is during the cool and dry season, which lasts from October to April. It is advisable to arrive at the churches early in the morning when the weather is still pleasant, around eight thirty in the morning.

What to Wear

As with any of Egypt’s churches, it is best to dress conservatively when visiting the many religious sites in Old Cairo. Visitors should also remember to remove their hats upon entering any of the churches and avoid flash photography inside.

The Coptic Museum

Right beside the Hanging Church, the Coptic Museum is a must-visit for understanding the history of the ancient churches. The Coptic Museum is the home to the world’s most extensive collection of Coptic antiquities such as art, textiles, and illuminated manuscripts.