The Hanging Church and the Holy Family Route in Egypt

The Flight of the Holy Family into Egypt is one of the most spiritually inspiring, culturally rich, and historically significant events. According to the Gospel of St. Matthew, Mary, Joseph, and the young Jesus had to leave their home in Bethlehem and were forced to seek refuge in Egypt. Having traveled through desert sands and rocky gorges, the family of three arrived to the edge of the Egyptian border after spending three and a half years in transit. The route covered more than 3500 km from northern coastal cities, the fertile crescent of the Delta, the Wadi El Natrun desert valleys, and the sandstone cliffs of upper Egypt.

Cairo is the heart of Egypt, and the Old Cairo district is its soul. Surrounded by many ancient Coptic churches clinging to the rocky terrain, The Hanging Church in particular is a wonder, a historic papal seat, and an essential stop on the flight of the Holy Family.

1. Learning About the Holy Family Route in Egypt

To understand the importance of The Hanging Church, one must learn about the wider context of the Holy Family’s journey. Officially recognized by Egypt’s Ministry of Antiquities, the preserved trail of twenty-five ancient sites marks the itineraries of the Holy Family in their travels from village to village in search of respite. The route can be divided into four large geographical segments.

Northern Delta Entry: Beginning from the natural acropolis of Farma (Pelusium) in the northern Sinai region, the Holy Family traveled west and through agricultural centers of Tell Basta, Samannoud, and Sakha. This region is famous for the miraculous wells that appeared at the children’s cries and ancient Bikha Isous stone with the footprint of Jesus.

Cairo Heartland: Heading south through the Nile, the Holy Family and the many followers heading their itineraries from distant cities arrived at Old Cairo and its caves. The family would stay for months in the underground chambers and natural fountains built into the surrounding cliffs before heading off the banks of the Nile by boats.

Wadi El Natrun: Stretching northwest into the Nitrian Desert, this region of valleys and gentle slopes was blessed by the presence of the Holy Family. It has since become a center of Christian monasticism in the 4th century and is famous for its four medieval monasteries.

Upper Egypt Sanctuaries: The journey through the Nile continued southward to villages and monasteries in Upper Egypt, including Gabal Al-Teir in Minya, Al-Muharraq in Asyut (where the family spent 185 days in a mud-brick chamber that would later become one of the world’s first altars), and Drunka, where the news of King Herod’s death supposedly reached Joseph.

Across Egypt’s nationwide trail of the Holy Family, Old Cairo serves as the city center and The Hanging Church as its heart.

2. Discovering the Architectural Wonder of The Hanging Church

Officially the Church of St. Virgin Mary Coptic Orthodox, The Hanging Church (or Al-Muallaqa) derives its nickname from the impressive architectural feat of building directly over the Roman-era Babylon fortress walls.

Built Upon Roman Foundations

Constructed in the 3rd or 4th century AD on the foundations of the Roman gates of Babylon, The Hanging Church has a unique construction feature. Instead of being built into the natural Egyptian rock formations, early Christian builders threw heavy palm and cedar beams across the open space between two ancient bastions and built the interior of the church on top of them. The nave of the building is an exceptional structure that floats over the hollow space of the Roman-era drop tower.

As one walks into The Hanging Church through the iron gate and a courtyard of palm trees, a steep staircase of twenty-nine steps leads to the main hall. Small glass squares built right into the marble floor enable the visitor to peer down through the wooden beams to the hollow bastion tower of the Roman fortress below.

Architectural Highlights and Interiors

The Timber Roof: The central vaulted ceiling of the nave replicates the shape of the inverted Noah Ark, representing a Christian symbol of salvation as a ship navigating the stormy waters of the world.

The Marble Pulpit: A famous 11th-century marble pulpit is set on top of thirteen marble pillars. Twelve represent the Apostles while the thirteenth, painted black, represents Judas Iscariot.

The Iconostasis Screens: Behind the main altars are intricate religious icons carved right onto the wooden hanging screen. The screens set against a dark background feature an entire row of ancient Coptic images of Christ, the Virgin Mary, and various saints.

3. The Hanging Church on the Trail of the Holy Family

While the churches of Old Cairo, including the neighboring Church of Abu Serga, stand over the caves where the Holy Family hid, The Hanging Church represents the history of the Holy Family’s journey. It was both a home and headquarters for the Papacy for several centuries during the Middle Ages.

Historic Seat of the Papacy

The Hanging Church served as the seat and home for the Coptic Orthodox Pope of Alexandria for many centuries. Significant papal elections, consecrations, and synods took place within the walls of The Hanging Church, overseeing the preservation of the Christian faith and its pilgrimages to Old Cairo.

Dedication to the Virgin Mary

As a mother and protector who guided the flight of the Holy Family into Egypt, the Virgin Mary holds a special place in the Coptic Orthodox Christian beliefs. As one of the oldest Virgin Mary dedicated churches in Cairo, The Hanging Church is regarded as a holy site with a long history of pilgrims praying for the Virgin’s miracle interventions during their own personal journeys.

4. Travel Tips for Visiting The Hanging Church

If you are visiting The Hanging Church and the Old Cairo district in general, here are a few pointers to help navigate the local sights and culture.

Getting There: The Hanging Church is located in the center of Coptic Cairo. The easiest way to get there is on the Cairo Metro (Line 1) and exiting at the Mar Girgis (St. George) station. The exit gate is right across the courtyard of The Hanging Church.

When to Visit: The best time to visit is during the months of October through April. Arrive at the church early in the morning (8:30 am – 9 am) to avoid crowds.

Dress and Etiquette: This is an active church, so visitors should dress modestly and cover their shoulders and knees. Visitors should also remove any headgear when indoors and keep their voices to a minimum within the halls.

Exploring Old Cairo: Learn about the wider context of the Holy Family’s journey by visiting the other Old Cairo churches, including the Church of Abu Serga (Holy Family cave), Church of St. Barbara, and the Coptic Museum with its unparalleled collection of early Christian manuscripts, textiles, and carved stone.