Tell Basta and the Holy Family: History and Travel Guide

The pilgrim route of the Holy Family through Egypt remains one of the most spiritually inspiring, historically intriguing, and culturally rich journeys of the ancient world. As recounted in the Gospel of Matthew, the Madonna and Child, with St. Joseph, fled the angry decree of King Herod and crossed deserts and borders to spend three and a half years in Egypt. During their stay, they traversed coastlines, the fertile Nile Delta, the urban enclave of Old Cairo, and the limestone cliffs of Upper Egypt, covering a distance of over 3,500 km!

While Coptic Cairo and the desert monasteries of Wadi El Natrun figure prominently on the itineraries of modern-day pilgrims, the ancient city of Tell Basta holds a special place in the memory of the Holy Family. Located near modern-day Zagazig in the Sharqia Governorate, Tell Basta was one of the first cities the Holy Family visited after crossing the eastern channels of the Nile. Here is a complete guide to the history, traditions, archaeology, and logistics of a visit to Tell Basta.

1. The Ancient City of Tell Basta: Background and Setting

To understand the context in which the Holy Family passed through Tell Basta, it is instructive to briefly review the history of this ancient city. Situated on the eastern bank of the Nile, Tell Basta was known in ancient times as Bubastis (or Pr-Bastt) – the center of the cult of Bastet, the cat-headed goddess of protection, fertility, and joy.

In its most prosperous period (the Third Intermediate Period, 945-715 BC), Bubastis was the capital of Egypt and one of the most important urban centers of the ancient world. The city was famed for its vast red-granite temple complex surrounded by groves, canals, and catacombs housing thousands of mummified felines. The celebrated Greek historian Herodotus wrote vividly about the beauty of the city’s temples and the great festivals that were celebrated there and attracted hundreds of thousands of pilgrims.

When the Holy Family arrived at Tell Basta in the first century AD, it was already a busy city with large stone temples, Roman garrisons, and pagan priests. Seeking respite from the long and arduous journey through the Sinai wilderness, Mother Mary, Joseph, and the infant Jesus approached the city gates in search of shelter and water.

2. The Holy Family in Tell Basta: Miracles and Prophecies

According to apocryphal gospels, early Coptic traditions, and medieval chronicles, the passage through Tell Basta was rich in miraculous occurrences and fulfilled prophecies.

The Collapse of the Idols

As the Holy Family entered the city limits, a curious event transpired that marked the beginning of their stay. As recounted in Coptic tradition, while the infant Jesus crossed the threshold of the great temple of Bastet, the huge stone idols of the goddess trembled and fell from their podiums.

The event was seen by many as a fulfillment of the Old Testament prophecy of Isaiah (19:1): “Lo! The Lord comes on a swift cloud and is coming to Egypt. The idols of Egypt shall tremble before him, and the hearts of the Egyptians melt with fear.”

The Hostility of the Town and the Holy Well

Upon witnessing the miracle, the priests and the elders of the town grew angry and refused to grant the Holy Family shelter and water. Fortunately, a local citizen named Athanasius had sympathy for the Holy Family and led them to the outskirts of the town to rest under the shade of a great tree.

To refresh the mother, the infant Jesus touched the earth or struck the ground with a small stick, and a spring of fresh water gushed from the ground. The water was sweet and clean, and for the next few decades, it has been providing sustenance and healing to the sick and the thirsty. This spring was later to become known as the Holy Well of Jesus.

3. Discovering Tell Basta: Archaeological Research and Excavations

For centuries, the ancient city of Bubastis was buried under the silt of the Nile. However, in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, Swiss archaeologist Edouard Naville and a team of Egyptian excavators uncovered the great red-granite blocks of the Temple of Bastet, Pharaonic statues, Roman bathhouses, and the remains of ancient houses.

In the late twentieth century, the tell was excavated once more by Egyptian excavators who uncovered the ancient stone well matching the description of the Holy Well. Built from dressed limestone blocks and surrounded by subterranean water channels, the well was a fitting place of pilgrimage for the followers of the early Christians.

In recent years, as a part of the national initiative to promote the ancient trail of the Holy Family as an international tourist destination, the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities launched a restoration project at Tell Basta:

The Open-Air Museum: An open-air archaeological park was established at the site, complete with paved walkways and bilingual information plaques. The tell’s rich Pharaonic history was showcased in displays of colossal statues, including the huge statue of Queen Meritamen (daughter of Pharaoh Ramesses II).

The Restored Holy Well Area: An excavation was launched around the ancient Holy Well, which was then encircled by stone walls to create a secluded area for the visitors and pilgrims.

The Visitor Center: A new visitor center was constructed at the entrance to the tell, providing a fitting introduction to the rich history of the ancient city and the Holy Family’s journey.

4. Tell Basta: The Pilgrimage Route Through the Nile Delta

Tell Basta serves as the starting point for the ancient route of the Holy Family through the Nile Delta. Upon resting at the outskirts of Bubastis, the Holy Family made their way through several other Delta cities:

From Tell Basta to Belbeis: Traveling southwest, the family rested under a wild tree in the village of Belbeis, who welcomed the Holy Family with kind words and gifts.

From Belbeis to Samannoud: Traveling northwest towards the center of the Delta, the family spent the night in Samannoud. Here, Jesus blessed a local well, and Maria baked sweet bread using a granite basin (both of which have been preserved at the Church of Saint Abanoub).

From Samannoud to Sakha: Traveling north to the town of Sakha, Jesus left his footprint imprinted in a smooth stone (Bikha Isous).

From Sakha to Cairo: Traveling south to the subterranean caves of Old Cairo through Mustorod.

5. Tips for Visiting Tell Basta

To make the most of your visit to Tell Basta, here are a few tips:

Location: Tell Basta lies on the southeastern outskirts of Zagazig, the capital of the Sharqia Governorate, approximately 80 km. to the northeast of Central Cairo.

Getting There: To visit Tell Basta, you may want to hire a car and a local driver (prices start from around LE 500 for a round-trip). Alternatively, you may also sign up for an organized tour company from Cairo.

The Best Time to Visit: Tell Basta is best visited in the cool season, between October and April. Aim to arrive at the tell at around 9:00 in the morning to enjoy the cool morning air.

Dress Code and Etiquette: When visiting the site of Tell Basta, it is advisable to dress modestly and wear comfortable shoes. Out of respect for the place and its history, it is best to keep your voice down when in the vicinity of the Holy Well.