Abu Serga Church and the Holy Family: History and Visiting Guide

The historic district of Coptic Cairo is one of the holiest, most authentic, and best-preserved places in Egypt. Surrounded by Roman stone towers and bastions of the ancient Fortress of Babylon, it shelters a network of dim alleyways and ancient churches where the holy family of Jesus Christ spent more than three years in exile.

According to the Gospel of St. Matthew, the Virgin Mary, St. Joseph, and the young Jesus wandered from their home in Bethlehem to escape the wrath of the babysitting King Herod. The family of three trekked through harsh desert sands to the far reaches of the Nile Valley. Their 3,500 km journey through Roman controlled lands took more than 3.5 years to complete. Yet, the Coptic Cairo neighborhood was their best safe haven in Egypt.

1. The Roman Fortress of Babylon: Understanding Coptic Cairo’s Beginnings

Long before it became a maze of narrow alleys and bustling souks, the area now known as Coptic Cairo was dominated by the Roman-era fortress of Babylon. The walled-off garrison was constructed around the turn of the 1st century AD by Roman authorities to control the strategic crossing of the Nile River and the apex of the Nile Delta.

The Roman fortress protected the Holy Family when they initially arrived in the region under the reign of Augustus Caesar. The garrison complex was surrounded by a mixture of civilian settlements, river ports, and local villages. To avoid detection, the Holy Family took shelter in limestone caves located below the fortress walls. Centuries later, the early Coptic Christian community built many of their ancient churches on top of these Roman structures.

2. Exploring Coptic Cairo: Must-See Attractions in the Historic District

In Coptic Cairo, most of the area’s main historic churches and attractions are located within a compact traffic-free enclave.

The Church of Abu Serga (St. Sergius and Bacchus)

Of all the churches in Coptic Cairo that are linked to the Holy Family, the Church of Abu Serga takes a special place of honor. The classic cross-shaped church was built over the ancient Roman fortress in the 4th century AD. Its upper-level cathedral boasts towering marble columns carved with hand-painted icons of saints, a magnificent 13th-century ebony and ivory iconostasis, and a wooden ceiling in the shape of Noah’s Ark. Going downstairs, a flight of stone stairs leads to a cool underground crypt that housed the Holy Family.

The crypt is an atmospheric chamber that measures around six meters deep. Within the chamber, visitors can view the ancient alcoves where the family of Jesus spent several weeks in exile, an early centuries baptismal font, and a deep stone well that the Holy Family used for drinking water.

The Hanging Church (Al-Muallaqa)

Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, this stunning church has a unique claim to fame: it is Egypt’s most famous and best-preserved ancient Coptic church. Dating back to the 3rd or 4th century AD, the Hanging Church derives its intriguing name from the fact that its main cathedral is built directly over the southern gatehouse towers of the Roman fortress of Babylon. When entering the church, visitors are ushered into a palm-fringed courtyard before climbing a majestic stairway of stone to get to the main cathedral. Here, guests look down through glass-paned windows to see hollow drop towers built on top of the old Roman gatehouses.

The Hanging Church contains more than 110 historic Coptic icons, an exquisite 11th-century marble pulpit, and thirteen pillars carved with the images of Christ and his disciples. The woodwork in the church is remarkable, and the Hanging Church served as the official seat of the Coptic Orthodox Pope for centuries.

The Church of St. Barbara

The Church of St. Barbara is another historic treasure that lies on the outskirts of Old Cairo. The 11th-century church is set on the eastern side of the Roman fortress, and it is dedicated to a pious young martyrdom who lost her life at the hands of her own father. In her time, St. Barbara lived in Nicomedia before becoming a devout follower of Christ. The church is conveniently situated on the ancient road that the Holy Family traveled to reach Coptic Cairo. The Church of St. Barbara is known for its serene ambiance, ancient wooden screens, and ancient relics of Coptic martyrs.

The Ben Ezra Synagogue

The Ben Ezra Synagogue is one of the most intriguing holy sites in all of Coptic Cairo. This 9th-century Jewish synagogue is located a short walk away from the Christian churches. Built on the site of a 4th-century Christian church that was sold to the Jewish community, the Ben Ezra Synagogue is a fascinating blend of ancient Egyptian and medieval Jewish history. Local legend claims that the sacred tree found on the grounds marks the spot where the infant Moses was found clinging to a papyrus basket in the reeds.

The Ben Ezra Synagogue is also famous for being the location of the Cairo Genizah, a hoard of historic Jewish secular and religious manuscripts that were uncovered by 19th-century scholars.

3. Going Beyond Coptic Cairo: Other Holy Family Waypoints Near Cairo

While the historic district of Coptic Cairo is the beating heart of all Egyptian Christian history, there are two other interesting Holy Family waypoints that lie in Greater Cairo.

Virgin Mary’s Tree in Matariya: This ancient sycamore tree marks the spot where the Virgin Mary took shelter in the shade of its boughs while Jesus produced a new spring of water. Besides the tree, the site also features the ancient tree offshoot, the original well, and an open-air museum complex.

The Church of the Virgin Mary in Maadi: This riverside church is located on the calm banks of the Nile in southern Cairo. It is here that the Holy Family is said to have boarded a wooden sailboat to travel south into Upper Egypt. Visitors have the option of taking the stone steps down to the water’s edge.

4. Useful Travel Tips for Exploring Coptic Cairo’s Ancient Churches

To make the most out of your visit to Coptic Cairo, consider keeping the following pointers in mind:

Getting There: The easiest way to get to Coptic Cairo is by taking the Cairo Metro – Line 1 to Mar Girgis (St. George) Station. From there, you will find plenty of entrances to the Roman towers and old churches.

When To Go: Try and plan your visit to Coptic Cairo between October and April – the weather is comparatively cooler. It is also a good idea to arrive early (around 8:30 or 9) so as to avoid the busy tour groups.

Attire & Etiquette: All the ancient churches in Coptic Cairo are places of worship, so it is a good idea to dress modestly. As a rule of thumb, always ensure that your shoulders and knees are covered when visiting these places. It is also advisable to remove hats when inside churches, and avoid using flash photography.

The Coptic Museum: The Coptic Museum is located in the fortress walls right next to the Hanging Church. As the world’s most extensive collection of Coptic art, the museum is also home to illuminated manuscripts, textiles, and ancient stone carvings. A visit to the Coptic Museum is always recommended when touring the churches in Old Cairo.